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The Ziltepad

The Ziltepad

Hiking along historic churches in the Wadden region

If you love hiking with a good dose of culture and nature, the Ziltepad might just be your perfect trail. This long-distance route winds along the coast of North Holland, Friesland, and Groningen, through a landscape shaped by the sea. Stretching from Stroe in North Holland to Losdorp in Groningen, the trail covers over 250 kilometers, divided into fifteen diverse stages ranging from 15 to 25 kilometers each.

What makes the Ziltepad truly special are the many historic churches you encounter along the way. Often no longer in regular use, these charming churches now serve as peaceful resting spots for hikers and vibrant community spaces. Built on ancient mounds known as terpen and wierden, they define the unique character of the region. Many of the churches offer guidebooks and historical information inside, giving you the chance to delve into the areas rich heritage. Some churches even provide basic overnight accommodationsa wonderful experience. Pro tip: bring earplugs, as the church bells may chime through the night!

My journey began in the charming town of Dokkum, one of Frieslands famed "Elfstedentocht" cities. From there, I walked several stages of the Ziltepad toward Uithuizermeeden in Groningen. The first short leg took me to Eastrum (Oostrum), through meadows filled with cows and sheep, with the expansive Frisian landscape opening up before me. In Eastrum, I spent the night in a tiny churcha truly unique experience.

  • "As I headed toward Lauwersoog, the landscape turned wilder. This stretch takes you along and atop the dike, with sweeping views of the Wadden Sea on one side and the green expanse of Lauwersmeer National Park on the other. The strong sea breeze made it a tough walk, but the views more than made up for it. Here, you can really feel the freedom and vastness of the open space. The park is also a great spot for birdwatching—and so quiet you could hear a pin drop."

    - Elmar Teegelbeckers / thru-hiking.com

In the following days, I walked further inland, passing through small villages like Vierhuizen and Hornhuizen. The scenery grew even more expansive, and I barely encountered any other hikers. However, I met plenty of friendly locals, happy to chat and excited to hear I was walking the Ziltepad. The churches along the route are always worth stepping intoperfect for stamping your route booklet and taking a short break.

The trail eventually leads past the well-known village of Pieterburen, once famous for its seal sanctuary, which has since relocated to Lauwersoogwhere I had just walked the day before. Be sure to stop for lunch at Garden Café Bertje Jens. The owner prepares delicious meals using only local ingredients. A fun fact: the café is named in honor of Bertje Jens, who passed away in 2009. Together with Toos Goorhuis-Tjalsma, she co-created the idea of walking across the Netherlandsback in the 1970s with the Pieterpad, which runs right beside the café. The Pieterpad is now considered the classic Dutch long-distance trail.

Farther into the Groningen countrysideyes, by now youre deep into the northeasternmost province of the Netherlandsthe path winds its way to Noordpolderzijl. Here, you can stay in cozy cabins at Basecamp Noordpolderzijl, right by the Wadden Sea. Sleeping by the water is a magical experience you wont want to miss! The trail continues to Usquert, known for its distinctive church with a separate bell towersomething unique to this region. From there, it's only a short walk to Uithuizermeeden, marking the end of my Ziltepad adventure.

Throughout this journey, I relished the peace and wide open spaces. I passed through places I would never have discovered otherwise, and the charm of the tiny churches and villages felt truly enchanting. Warm conversations with locals along the way added an extra layer of joyalways leaving me with a smile. The Wadden coast, with its rare blend of land, sea, and cultural richness, reveals a truly unique side of the Netherlands.

For more information about the trail, check out hiking-trails.com and the Visit Wadden website. Happy trails!

Photography: ©Elmar Teegelbeckers