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Panamericana

Panamericana

INES PAPERT AND LUCA LINDIC ON A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY IN ALASKA

A honeymoon with a difference

United States - The athlete couple's honeymoon was actually supposed to be a pan-American road trip. Unfortunately, this was not possible due to the travel restrictions imposed by the coronavirus pandemic. But the call of the mountains was loud - and so the mountaineering couple travelled to wild Alaska. There they experienced absolute seclusion, pure wilderness, unspoilt landscapes and unique climbing adventures. Their tour was crowned by the first ascent of the "Heart of Stone" route.

Ines Papert and Luka LindiÄŤ are a mountaineering couple in a class of their own. They got married in 2020 and planned their honeymoon as a trans-American trip. It was to start in Alaska and then they wanted to travel along the west coast of the USA in a motorhome. However, due to the pandemic, the first leg of the journey was cancelled and the couple spent their honeymoon in Alaska.

HEART OF STONE

The couple stayed in Alaska for three months. While the weather situation slowed them down a little at the beginning of their trip, they managed a spectacular first ascent on Mount Huntington in Denali National Park in the second leg of their journey.

On 26 April 2021, the time had finally come. After checking the walls along the Ruth Glacier, they took off below the west face of Mt Huntington. They landed there in a small plane and set up base camp.

The next morning, the pair first climbed the Colton Leach Route. Thanks to the good conditions, they made good progress on both rock and ice and reached the summit ridge of Mount Huntington without any problems. A successful exploration tour for the couple.

The weather was kind to them. Thanks to the good forecast and a break, Ines and Luka decided to try a new route. The steep rock face appealed to them.

On 26 April 2021, the time had come. They packed their equipment and first climbed an existing route up to the steep rock face. They then started on the new route. To their great surprise, the crack system that seemed most logical for the ascent was filled with ice. It was a strange kind of ice that was the same colour as the rock because of all the dirt. They therefore continued their tour in mixed mode.

The route turned out to be steep and almost every pitch had some kind of boulder crux. Some of them were quite strong, but fortunately mostly well protected. At this point, water was running down the wall and the ice became difficult to walk on. The route challenged the two professional alpinists. The situation became difficult in some places and they only managed to cross certain sections at the second attempt. Snow kept coming up against them and the difficult conditions surprised them in some places.

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"The full moon came out and we couldn't sleep for another two hours because the view was so beautiful." Luka Lindic | LOWA PRO Team

A BREATHTAKING VIEW

At 3 a.m., they reached a suitable bivouac site under a large boulder. But they were rewarded with a breathtaking view, which is why they were only able to fall asleep in the early hours of the morning.

The next morning, they left their bivouac site with just one rucksack and reached the summit of Huntington at 11am. The two professional athletes sat there for almost an hour and couldn't believe how warm it was. No matter which way they looked, all they could see was the wild and mesmerising Alaskan mountains.

The descent went smoothly because they already knew it and they reached their base camp in the afternoon. They then discovered that they had climbed a completely new route. After the initial snow slopes, they climbed 20 pitches through new terrain before joining other routes on the snow flank of the summit. The feature that perfectly marked the start of this route also gave it its name: Heart of Stone.

FACTS & DATA

  • DURATION:

    2 days

  • DIFFICULTY:

    1050m, M7, 50-90°

  • HEIGHT METER:

    Polar

  • CLIMATE:

    Polar

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