Mountaineering 101

10 tips for your safety on alpine tours

The alarm clock rings a lot earlier than working hours. It's freezing cold, even though it's the height of summer. You put on your glacier equipment in the middle of the night with other sleepy mountaineers and stumble over steep paths and loose scree with stiff limbs. Cold and darkness surround you and everything you see is limited to the beam of your headlamp. But it's worth getting up early. Travelling before dawn in absolute silence. Under the moon and the Milky Way, framed by pitch-black mountain peaks, with the rising sun, ever clearer light, clearer air, the sky, the clouds in all colours and moods. Walking in the glistening sunshine over the ice flow of glaciers and snow-white firn ridges - these are priceless experiences!

It is not without reason that alpine tours are described as the supreme discipline of mountaineering. The fact that the tour goes up is already in the word. Glacier ascents and summit tours with snow, ice and combined terrain in the high mountains are considered "classic alpine tours". Glacier crossings, passages with ice flanks and firn ridges as well as rocky passages await you on alpine tours.

For your safety on alpine tours and so that you know how to protect yourself from alpine dangers, the German Alpine Association has published 10 recommendations for alpine tours, which Alix von Melle from the LOWA PRO team explains to you here. You can learn the practical basics in rock and ice courses, and the best way to gain the necessary experience is step by step.

EQUIPMENT, WEATHER AND ORIENTATION

ADAPT YOUR EQUIPMENT TO THE CONDITIONS

Check conditions
Glacier retreat, deglaciation (melting of the snow and ice cover) and an increase in the zero-degree limit due to climate change increase the risk of falling rocks and crevasses. You should therefore set off in good time and constantly check the weather and terrain - and adapt your route accordingly.

Ongoing orientation
In pathless terrain, on glaciers and when visibility is severely restricted, orientation can be difficult. It is therefore important to know how to use a map, altimeter, compass and GPS. If in doubt, it is best to turn back in good time.

Appropriate equipment
Adapt your equipment to your destination and make sure your rucksack is light! Rope and helmet protect you from falling and falling rocks, crampons and ice axes provide support. Don't forget sun protection - cream and glacier goggles. For emergencies: first aid kit, bivouac sack, mobile phone and headlamp. We have put together a few tips for your packing list.

CLOTHING

It is best to pack functional underwear as well as a change of shirt, functional socks, a jumper or fleece jacket, softshell touring trousers, waterproof overtrousers, a waterproof hard shell jacket, an insulating jacket (Primaloft or down), light and warm gloves, gaiters as well as a hat, headband and scarf.
CLIMBING EQUIPMENT

A variety of carabiners, slings and clamps are of course important.
It is best to pack at least 3 Safelock HMS screwgate carabiners. Plus two normal carabiners, a 1.2 m sling and a 0.6 m sling. Plus a Prusik or 6 mm rope (1×1m+ 2×2.4m) or alternatively a rope clamp (Tibloc, MiniTraxion, etc.) for crevasse rescue.
EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT

Make sure that your mobile phone is fully charged and that you have all emergency numbers or an emergency app installed. You should also have a bivouac sack (for every 2 participants) and a first aid kit including a rescue blanket.

Backpack with rain cover

It is best to use a rucksack with 35-45 litres.
Telescopic poles, helmet and mountain boots

Make sure that your mountaineering boots are crampon-compatible. Make sure you get crampons with an anti-balling plate.
Sun protection

Make sure you pack a cream with a high sun protection factor, glacier goggles and a sun hat.
Catering

It is best to take a drinking bottle with 1-3 litres of water with you. Make sure you also take energy bars and a snack.
Classic equipment

Take a headlamp, a waist belt and an impregnated rope with you.
Ice equipment

You should also have an ice axe, ice screws (depending on the tour) as well as quickdraws and mobile safety equipment.
Overnight utensils

If an overnight stay is planned, it is best to pack a hut sleeping bag, washing kit and a change of clothes.
Miscellaneous

Other essentials include cash, an EC card, an AV pass, an area guide or tour description, a map, a compass, altimeter and GPS device.

HEALTHY AND FIT IN THE MOUNTAINS

PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR FITNESS AND HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT

Alpine tours take you to great heights and require a lot of stamina! The intensive stress stimuli for the heart and circulation as well as muscles and joints require good health and a realistic self-assessment. Avoid time pressure and choose a pace that does not overtax anyone.

Pay attention to altitude adaptation

Above 2500 metres, the body needs time to adapt. A slow ascent and a moderate increase in sleeping altitude are crucial for this. It is best to always spend the night a few metres below your maximum daily altitude. Take your time and remember to drink enough water. If you experience symptoms such as nausea, headaches or dizziness - typical symptoms of altitude sickness - you should descend again.

NEVER GO ON AN ALPINE TOUR ALONE

CAREFUL TOUR PLANNING

Maps, guide books, the internet and experts provide information about the length, altitude difference, difficulty and current conditions. Pay particular attention to the weather forecast, as thunderstorms, snow, wind and cold greatly increase the risk of accidents. To avoid coming to a dead end, you should also plan alternative routes that you can take in case of doubt. If you are less experienced, you should always have a mountain guide in the group. Find out about national mountain rescue emergency numbers (Euro emergency number 112).

"Going it alone is generally not advisable. Ability, experience, motives and group size determine the choice of tour. The ideal group size is 2 to 6, more people are a risk factor. It is also important that you inform a person you trust about the route, the destination and the return."

Alix von Melle | LOWA PRO Team

ASSESS SITUATIONS CORRECTLY

SAFETY FIRST!

Roping up on glaciers, belaying in fall terrain

Rocky ridges, glaciers, firn and ice flanks require a high level of expertise in belaying and rescue techniques. In the event of a crevasse fall, the glacier rope team prevents the fall. Particular caution is required on steep terrain, as walking on ropes at the same time can lead to the risk of being pulled along.

Sure-footedness is the key to greater safety on alpine tours

Falls as a result of slipping or stumbling are the most common cause of accidents! Bear in mind that excessive speed or tiredness can severely impair your surefootedness and concentration. Insecurity also increases the risk of accidents. With enough fluids, energy and sufficient breaks, you can maintain your performance and concentration for a long time. The safe use of crampons and ice axes requires intensive training.

"In the high mountains, you have the absolute freedom to move around in a unique environment. You can enjoy this freedom to the full, but you should always respect the highly sensitive nature of the high mountains. So please don't leave any rubbish behind, avoid unnecessary noise, leave plants alone and adhere to the regulations for protected areas. You will also encounter wild animals high up in the mountains. Be careful not to scare them or disturb their habitat."

Alix von Melle | LOWA PRO Team

TOUR TIPS FOR BEGINNERS

STEP BY STEP

Finally, we'll give you some tour tips for beginners:

Similaun (3,606m)
The Similaun is one of the most popular alpine tours in the Ötztal Alps. Provided you have glacier experience, it does not have any exposed sections or climbing passages if the conditions are right.

Großvenediger (3,657 m)
A technically easy high tour over a crevasse-rich glacier to the highest peak in the Venediger Group. Only the summit ridge, which leads a few metres from the pre-summit to the summit cross, can be narrow and exposed depending on the conditions.

Strahlhorn (4,190m)
The Strahlhorn is one of the easier four-thousand-metre peaks in Valais. The Britannia hut is ideally located as a base and can be reached from Saas Fee.